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Member Since 27 Jun 2008
Offline Last Active Apr 13 2018 06:39 PM

#783282 Where do I start electric problem.

Posted by owner on 05 June 2017 - 07:57 PM

Thanks for the reply mate. Went to the auto electrican was diagnosed as a bung headlight switch. Apparently not uncommon at this age for them. He tried to fix it but the parker light connection which also operates the tails and dash lights would not work. Now all I have to do is find a replacement headlight switch.

Finding a wrecker with an XF isn't that easy and when you do the switch is gone and if not, the switch might have the same problem. They're getting long in the tooth now and there are fewer and fewer around. If I can't find one by weeks end I'll start searching the Internet.

#779445 Knocking in the rear suspension

Posted by owner on 26 May 2015 - 11:35 AM

Throw the monroes away.

#776784 Why Oh Why Do Ford Make It so Hard

Posted by owner on 27 September 2014 - 12:49 AM

Don't want an Aston Martin. Typical pommie car. Poorly made and mostly bloody ugly if you look at some of the BL stuff. Some of Ford's stuff was bloody ugly as well. The Sierra's come to mind immediately. Australian Fords are not poorly made they just needed more quality control. I believe what I say is true. I've had lots of cars Aussie, European, Jap and Yankie which are basically the same as Australian, but with a few alterations such as bigger radiators and suspension mods.

What I'm saying and I reiterate is that Ford had a good product but for just a little more effort could have had a great product. The other important point in all of this is that their after sales service was appalling and even now it needs work. If they want to keep selling cars in Australia and it doesn't matter where they import them from, they are going to have to do something about how they treat their customers.

#776739 Why Oh Why Do Ford Make It so Hard

Posted by owner on 24 September 2014 - 06:13 PM

Even with all the genius of Ford engineers in sabotaging their vehicles such as not correcting years of breaking door handles, melting accelerator cables, blown head gaskets and secret fuse box locations you think they could make changing a headlight bulb easy, but oh no, not Ford engineers

For some reason with all the things that they throw at me I still love this old tank. It's not fast, not that good looking, full of design faults and costs me more than its worth. Now backtrack to the headlight changing. The passenger side is not that hard. You can get your hand in there and pop the old bulb but of course there is the matter of getting that brilliantly designed spring clip back into to place without skinning every knuckle on your hands, but the real fun comes with the driver's side headlamp.

Remove the battery, then remove the air conduit (careful doing this, don't bust it) then you can just get your hand into remove the cap, take out the bulb, put in place the new bulb and then the fun really begins; holding the bulb in place while trying to get that f$&king spring clip on that holds the bulb in place. Once you've achieved this (good luck), put the air conduit back in and reinstall the battery, and it's that simple. IT'S A HEADLIGHT BULB! Couldn't you geniuses at Ford just have a screw in or twist fit like the rear bulbs instead of that stupid spring clip?

#756204 How to Remove Rubber Cap from Vacuum Line Fragment Without Damaging It

Posted by owner on 02 April 2013 - 11:26 AM

Update. If anybody needs to do this. Got a small drill bit and gently drilled out the old piece of line. No damage to the rubber cup. Connected it all up and the vents change just like 1987.

#606092 Kickdown cable

Posted by owner on 05 May 2011 - 05:51 PM

If anybody wants information on how to adjust a kickdown cable I will put up some images from the genuine FORD workshop manual.

#567461 replacing belts

Posted by owner on 19 January 2011 - 07:12 PM

Hi Adrian,
I submitted this question once and n00bus m@x1mus suggested a rather hefty piece of pipe, an application of weight and then a liberal application of alcohol; I believe the alcohol was for his consumption rather than for the vehicle. I used an old tyre iron and some caution. The thread is under the title 'Strange Steering'. It did not specifically deal with the replacement of the belt but another problem associated with the power steering.

The workshop manual I have, which is a genuine manual but is not that great despite what others say, lacks detail so it is really only for people who have a mechanical aptitude. It does not even have an index so at times there is some searching. I am a technical author by profession so I know a bit about writing manuals.

The belt replacement procedure specifies that a belt tension tool be used to adjust the tension of the belt. The entire procedure explains how to use the tensioner, so it is of little use, except of course to those who are in possession of a tensioner. I doubt that this tool would be obtainable given the age of the XF. Others may know more. Let's hope.

However given that you may be able to come by such a device here is the procedure:


Refer to the Tool List in Part 3-6 for special tools.
Pump drive belt tension cannot be checked accurately using the thumb pressure or belt deflection methods. The adjustment must be made with a belt tension gauge.

Check the belt tension with a belt tension gauge Tool. For a new belt the tension should be 540 to 640 Newtons, for a belt that has been run for longer than 10 minutes, tension should be 360 to 440 Newtons.

Do not pry against the reservoir when adjusting. Any pressure deforms the reservoir thus causing leaks.

1. Install a 10mm dia. 20mm long bolt and a washer to the unused hole in the pump.
2. Loosen the bolts on the pump attaching bracket.
3. Install a ring spanner on the bolt installed in Item 1., and adjust a (I suggest 'the') pump to obtain the correct belt tension.
4. Tighten the pump mounting bolts.


Whenever a repair is carried out, that permits air to enter the fluid lines or the pump, the Start Up Procedure, as described in this Part must be carried out.

(After Pump, Steering Box or Line Repair)

1. Fill reservoir to the cold levelwith specified fluid.
2. Start engine and run for one or two seconds to circulate fluid.
3. Top up reservoir.
4. Repeat items 2 and 3 until reservoir level remains full.
5. Idle engine and turn steering wheel to momentarily contact each lockstop (full lock).
6. Stop engine and top up reservoir.

All this is doing is bleeding the system.



1. Loosen the three bolts securing the pump to the mounting bracket and remove the belt from the pump and crankshaft pulleys.


1. Install the drive belt on the pump and crankshaft pulleys.
2. Adjust the belt tension, as described in Adjustments.


Refer to COMPRESSOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION and loosen the attaching hardware in lieu of removal. (I included this just to demonstrate how frustrating this manual can sometimes be). There is an exploded view of this procedure at the link.

http://s1113.photobu... falcon photos/

I will not bore you with the unnecessary steps because these describe the removal and installation of the compressor.

It simply states that: Loosen...belt adjuster and remove drive belt. In the diagram I suggest that the belt adjuster bolts are the ones that go through the lugs on top of the compressor.

Installation reads: Install new compressor and fit drive belt. The tension for the drive belt is NEW: 490-620 Newtons, USED (that is after 10 minutes of use): 360-490 Newtons.

Adrian, there is a good probablity that this is of little use to you although it is a touch more sophisticated that the n00bus m@x1mus
method, although alot thirstier. Hope it helps.