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My TF Cortina Project


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#1 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:19 PM

Since Iam getting abit more into things I might aswell start a fresh thread as this is pretty much a fresh start on the car.

History:
After owning 2 other TF cortinas, which were both riddled with rust, I found another 1 owner example. After some small talk with the owner I managed to get it cheap. The log books and Ford manuals were chucked in with it. Its a TF S Pac Cortina, auto with the air-con.
The interior was in great condition, air-con didn't work and had only 123,000kms. The suspension was wore and but otherwise this thing drove really nice.
And the major bonus, no rust. At all. After owning 2 I knew where to look. It was perfect.

I replaced the steering and suspension with my old items I had at home which were re-coed and modified (H/D lowered springs, whiteline swaybars etc). I put on a set of extractors and a Weber carb off a XE falcon. Replaced the diff with my diff which is an LSD with 3.45:1 ratio.
The car ran a 15.96, still with the BW auto.

After this, I had a really, really bad experience with a backyard panel beater/spray painter, which I don't want to mention as it just upsets me too much, SO DON'T ASK!

Anyway, as of late, I have gotten back into it after a much needed break to calm down and replan things.
I have now mini-tubbed the car myself, by extending the standard tubs out to the chassis rail. I managed to gain enough clearance for a 265 tire and probably a 9" rear rim.

Iam making tutorials of all my steps now and putting them up on the ford cortina website. www.fordcortina.com.au

Here are a few pics

The day I bought it, at the previous owners house

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After installing the said bits above (main difference is its lowered)

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Progress:
I have bought a few bits which I'll keep to myself until I install them as its not worth mentioning. But the basic idea is to go turbo 6 and have a really nice streeter. But I do want things to be done to the best of my ability. So what I can do, I will.

Tubs
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Rotisserie
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DOH! I've found some rust. Its in the cavity where the seatbelt reel sits in the sill panel. I've managed to cut out the infected peices bar the sill section. Photos up soon.

I was really hoping the car was all clean.

On a good note, I managed to remove all the sound deadening inside the car. Hell of a job but I got it all done and now can see all the seams really well for further stitch welding to strengthen the car up as much as possible.

#2 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:21 PM

RUST!!!!

Its not much luckily.

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Have to buy a sill panel section now and then weld that in along with a new made up support and replacement section for the lower part of the seatbelt reel housing.

This was caused by very badly fitted sill panel and rear wheel tub. The corner of these 2 sections has a triangle shape peice missing about the size of a 20c peice. The RHS luckily is perfect and completely sealed.

I remade the rusted sections of the panels that I removed. Welded them up and paint stripped with a stripper disc. I have since welded in the support panel and welded new nuts to the back of the seatbelt pocket ready for stitching into the car. The sill panel section that was rusted has been cut out and removed and the new section is now a perfect fit with about 0.5mm gap all round.

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I was having trouble finding an underbody spray gun with an extension but managed to get one. I also bought the POR15 and some spare brushes to apply it on certain areas.

That will be it for the rust and I'll be able to start removing unwanted peices on the undercarriage of the car (eg, old jack points). I have to fix a section of my front crossmember which seems to have taken a hit and the steering rack mounting point on one side it not aligned correctly due to someone welding it back in crocked.

#3 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:24 PM

Painted the POR15 onto the support panel for the seatbelt reel cavity. After than I tacked in the sill and seatbelt reel cavity panel.

Pretty happy with the results, considering I had to make some of those sections by hand.

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That will be it for rust repairs, woohoo!

Ok, I finished fully welding the seatbelt panel and also the sill. Turned out fantastic I reckon.

I managed to remove the old jack mounting points for the old style jacks that used to come with these old cars. They were started to form rust under them and the ones against the sill panel had a very bad gap which also would have caused water to get in. The floor looks alot cleaner now also.

Along with that I managed to remove one of the steering rack mounting points which looked like it had taken a serious hit, cracked off and then someone rewelded it back on. But 3mm off the position it should have been. So I grinded it out, put it in the right spot and then welded it back in.

Not fun things to do, but preventing or fixing other dramas is better to be done now.

I bought an underbody gun with a long extension to paint the POR15 into the sills. Well, it didn;t even come out the gun. Unsure as to why, but I'll be enquiring with the place I bought the gear from to see why its not coming out and only just making a mess of the extension.


Managed to come with a design for the upper diff links to strengthen them. I noticed the lower links have chassis as part of the setup. The chasis being divided in that spot to run 2 "U" shaped peices of metal, plus the floor making a box shape in the end. Only spot welded though.
So going by that, I decided to do the same with the uppers. Now one side is boxed, but the other just has a flat peice of sheet metal. This is where Iam guessing is the weak link.
I then boxed it in with 2mm square tubing. I sliced it in have and then trimmed it till it fit snug with the floor and the flat sheet metal. Drilled a hole in the correct spot for a bolt and welded it on. But before or this, I stitch welded the whole area. All metal to the chassis and to the floor, peices that butted up against each other and everything.

Sadly I forgot to take a photo of this part. DOH!

Anyway, I made sure the square tubing section that I added, would make the width from bolt head area to the other end 120mm. This is so that I can then use the same bolts as the lower links.

I also remove the lips of the bracket which attachs the chassis rail to the sheet metal link. This allowed me to stitch weld them areas also. Just to be sure.

Here is the area all cleaned up and ready for stich welding.
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You can just see some of the stitching done under the square tubing and around it.

I'll be neatening it up alittle afterwards by closing it up at both ends and making the front section flow back in towards the chassis rail.

#4 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:25 PM

I made up a panel to raise the trans tunnel at the rear. On a previous occasion (many years ago) the car was very low and the tail-shaft would hit the tunnel when it was loaded up. Iam planning on going low again, not stupid low, but low enough. So for this to not happen again I have raised the rear half of the trans tunnel. It was pretty easy to see where the problem area was.

I bent up a sheet and then trimmed it to fit the existing hump, raised by about 30mm in the centre compared to stock.

I also cut out a end plate that fits at the front section. This plate was needed as I didn't want to cut away any metal from the cabin brace that runs from sill to sill. Also with this brace I stitch welded the area that would have been covered by the new tunnel before I continued for added strength.

I then welded in the peice from inside the cabin with spot welds. After this I cut out the old tunnel section from underneath.

I allowed a 10mm lip to fold up and press against the new section. I then fully welded the lip to the new tunnel in 1" stitches till it was complete.

Later I will grind back the welds and make them smooth.

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I finished making the Dump Pipe trench in the trans tunnel/firewall.

I managed to cut alittle out of the subframe/control arm brace also. So that will help with clearance for the Dump Pipe.

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#5 geohatrick

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:41 PM

wow.... amazing work so far
Brown fairlane.... slow & lowered!

#6 Ants

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 11:36 PM

Great work mate.Is this the model that has the factory scheels?

Oz Cars,Oz guy's

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/

Where all you get is cars,not adds.


#7 Ridin_Oldskool

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 12:56 AM

great work i remember ya before the site crashed about 2 years ago what happen to the door popers?

#8 PSI_LTD

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 12:57 AM

whats the plan for the driveline?
'01 BMW M3 - in storage
'85 zl turbo - in storage - for sale!! PM ME
daily: size 13 feet

#9 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 07:22 AM

No, this model did have different interior but only in the sense of material used. The actual seats are just standard bolster Cortina seats. Its a black cloth with a sports style stripe pattern. Very different to the Ghia.

Door Poppers are gone, but the door still opens in the same manner without the poppers. So instead of being an electrical way of opening the door its now fully mechanical.

The driveline, turbo 200ci 6, C4 and BW diff.

#10 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 03:52 PM

This is the seat and how it'll be in place.
The seats are OBX Carrera's. When looking at seats I found them to be the most perfect for a normal male shape, that being wider across the shoulders and narrower across the hips. All the other aftermarket ones that I tryed (in my price range) were the opposite.
They'll get re-trimmed once I get to the interior stage

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Next up, I'll do the LHS seat mods. I have the rear seat brace to put in place and garnet blast some of the boot area before painting the cabin in POR15.
Onto the undercarriage, WOOHOO!

#11 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 03:54 PM

Finally an update.

I have finished with the stitch welding inside the cabin and boot areas.

Here you can see how I stitched the sill braces to the floor and the floor to the sills. Also the firewall to the floor.

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The tubs have also been fully welded and are solid as a rock.

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I modified the seat mount areas for the front seat as I bought a set of Honda Civic ED seat rails. They are the flatest that I found.
Since the rails sit on an angle, front being higher than the rear of the seat. I decided to slope the sill brace so that the rail sat flat and as low as possible.
From factory, the inner most front seat mount is bolted in from the front of the sill brace and the outer most is bolted down on the sill brace.
I removed the outer most mount and made it function the same as the inner most mount via bolted to the front of the sill brace.

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The seats themselves needed to have the mounting areas where the rails bolt onto modified also. I had to move the threaded sleeves slightly further apart so as to be able to use the factory cortina floor supports for the seat mounting area.
I still had to fill in the rear floor mounts on the car and then re-drill them in the correct spot.

I got a peice of rectangular tubing to raise the outer most rail as the cortina has one mount that higher than the other.

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#12 speed17

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 04:00 PM

nice work there mate, i really like seeing the car in bare metal, looks so good, sometimes its a shame that you have to paint it!

keep up the good work.
Drag racers go straight to the finish the rest of those guys just drive around in circles looking for it.
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#13 evan

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 04:56 PM

wow great work mate :hy:

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ooooooooooohhh

#14 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 04:37 PM

Another small update.

After making a nice mess with my sandblaster, I decided to make up some curtains that surround the car basically and are from ceiling to the floor. I can pull them back and close the up if need be. That should contain the mess when I next get cracking on the sandblaster again. But just a tip, don't bother using it on a hot day without a water-trap at the end of your line. The compressor was working hard and just producing a heap of water which would clog the garnet at the end of the gun, making it a pain in the butt.

It did work fairly well though and I got half of the parcel tray bottom done and the tubs, parcel tray support and boot hinge. But Iam going to wire wheel as much as I can and then hit it with the blaster, so as to keep the mess down some.

In other news, I cut out the boot floor and will be buying a section of ute floor to weld in. Reason being, the ute floor already has the ridges in it for strength and will look factory (except the fact that theres no spare wheel well).

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I also unstitched the Fuel Filler from the rear qtr and also the section that attachs to the boot floor. I then cut out some sections of new sheet metal and welded them in. I left the ridge and small section that is actually part of the qtr press and then welded in the new section. I thought this might help with panel warp. It didn't. Main reason being that I could see, but under the hole in the qtr, it had started to rust pretty badly. It wasn't all the way through though, but once I tryed to weld, it just blow holes in that section. So I had to cut out a strip about 15mm high at the bottom and reweld it. But at least now it hasn't got any rust there. The bugger of it was that it was so thin on that section that the 1st attempt at welding the plate it, warped the bottom of the section on the qtr. But nothing that can't be fixed.

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I'll be finishing off the paint removal hopefully next week and then finally POR15 the rear section of the car.

#15 robbie

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 06:12 PM

great looking build so far... very good progress.

I hope I didnt skim over it, but whats happening driveline wise?

My new club - OzFalcon


#16 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 07:33 PM

I'll start mentioning the driveline once I get to that stage as I want to keep the thread and myself on what Iam upto at the time. But basically, just a turbo 6.

#17 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 04:04 PM

"In todays episode of Australia Corty ....."

RUST! I found a tiny bit more and it had to go. Just on the lip of the boot rubber. Made up a peice and welded it in.
Also found someone with a ute tray floor, so should have that next week. SAWEEET!!!

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#18 P100_Ute

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 08:16 PM

nice work. good to see ur welding/grinding skillz r top notch.

most car inspectors might not even notice the mods you have done.
good to see the amount of effort your putting into this.

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#19 Oscar of Markoz

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Posted 03 January 2009 - 04:42 PM

"On todays episode on Australian Cortina ....."

I have finished the parcel tray and rear seat brace. I bought some 2mm right-angle and brace the corner of the parcel tray closest to the front of the car. From C-pillar to C-pillar. It was really flimsy there.
Also, I then made the rear seat braces. Coming off the parcel tray brace down onto the floor where the originals used to go. At the ends, I placed some flat 2mm sheet peices. All welded, to the floor, tubs and onto the braces themselves.
Its extremely strong compared to the old originals.

I also managed to remove the paint from the top and bottom of the parcel tray, the braces that go down to the tubs, the tubs themselves, etc.
Then I coated them in POR15. Only 1 coat at the moment as these areas are very intricate and take much time to be done correctly. So the 2nd coat will be going on shortly.
In the last photo you can see the floor area which I had done previously. Its alittle dusty and not as glamorous as the fresh stuff, but once cleaned it "blings up" Haha.
I have left the chassis rail area as I might get some burn-through when I stitch up the chassis rails. So I'll do them later on.

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Next on the agenda is to remove the paint from the A, B and C pillars and to stich them and coat in POR15 also. Once thats done, I'll be measuring up the new boot floor and welding that section in.

#20 shaneo

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 08:16 PM

nice write up, cant wait to satrt my build up




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