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The Yellow Turbo Wagon


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#61 KLR250

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Posted 10 May 2008 - 09:53 AM

totally normal, no issues there
Xfalcon Retard hall of fame: TUCKER :hihi:
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#62 81foxdwagon

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 09:44 PM

Update time:

Built up my wideband kit last weekend. Got it off a crowd called Techedge in canberra. Basically it was like a Jaycar kit, solder this and that. I wouldnt recommend it for people that dont understand electronics. Configuring the board is also not for the amateur.

Once I ironed out the creases I tried it all out in the car. I must admit its a fantastic product when its done. It can output to a laptop and an external display simultaneously. It also has about 6 analogue inputs that you can also log (like MAP, TPS, MAT etc). Also it has an RPM input so you can log quite a bit.

Heres one of the display:
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One of the wideband controller:
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For those interested see www.wbo2.com/2y. Thats the kit I bought, with the LD02 screen

On the way home I had a bit of a moment. Hit boost and the car just cut out, tacho went to zero, no spark.... Pulled over and cranked it over again and it fired up. Excellent. Got 1/2 way home and it stopped again. Got out and had a look. Turns out the coil -ve wire to the electronic lockoff control on the gas had shorted out on my oil return line. Bit of tape and off I went again.

When I got home I thought its time for EDIS. So I had a read of KLR250's Drews discussion on mounting the EDIS wheel.

Now this may not occur for some people but for me I found:

1) - NOT enough room on the balancer for the EDIS wheel. When I bolted the balancer back on the car (after relieving the timing cover ribbing) the back of the edis wheel scrubbed on the outer part of the front main seal. Now I could have not screwed the balancer in as far (as its inteference fit) but thats mega dodgy, and the fanbelt would have been crooked on the waterpump and alternator.

Solution to 1) was to machine some of the back of the balancer off. I measured that to clear sufficiently I would need to lose about 4-5mm. Using a dud balancer to start with I had a bit of a practice and it all turned out A-OK.

Here we have a pic of the stock balancer (left), practice balancer with a bit machined off (centre) and the edis wheel (right)
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Another angle. Stock one on the left, slightly machined on the right:
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And here is the final product. You can see the shinyness from the machining. This allows the EDIS wheel to sit approx 4.5mm further away from the timing cover.
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From the other angle. You can see how much more snout is left on the balancer to push on the crank:
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I highly suggest EDIS people check this before pushing your EDIS wheel on. Last thing you want is taking all that effort mounting the trigger wheel up and having it not clear the timing cover nose.

I then set about mounting the VR sensor. Havent finished yet. Scoped out two suitable locations. One is about dead vertical (HARD) and the other is off of the aircon compressor bracket. Im going with option 2 since that is the simplest, and I dont remove the bracket often (so it wont require re-timing).

Edited by 81foxdwagon, 13 May 2008 - 09:48 PM.

X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#63 Pane

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 06:46 PM

G'day

This is a great job you have done. I'm very impressed with the tech edge controller. Looks like a cheaper alternative than getting a innovate motorsports controller. I wonder if this could be connected to run along side a megasquirt?

Cheers
If its too low your too tall!

#64 Pane

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 06:51 PM

G'day

One thing i did forget to ask was, which model cig welder do you have? I'm looking at buying one of these and am curious as to wether you use it with gas or without? Have you welded aluminium with it?

Cheers
If its too low your too tall!

#65 81foxdwagon

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 08:14 PM

Ive got a CIG Transmig 165. Great little welder. Think ive had it for about 3yrs now, got it brand new. No troubles at all.

Dont use gasless wire. It works OK if your welding 10mm plate, but for 1-4mm mild steel welding its a real pain in the butt. Keeps spattering and blowing holes everywhere.

For mild steel I use Argoshield Light shielding gas. I also purchased a proper CIG regulator (not the povo one that came with the welder) which is for MIG/TIG welders. Its much more precise and has a gauge to tell you how much gas is left and how much is flowing into the welder.

I havent welded alloy with this welder, but I have with a similar one (WIA 160Amp). Cant see that it would be a problem (you will need to use Argoshield Heavy gas though). As with all mig welders, alloy welding is difficult because you get a lot of dross in the welds and its easy to undercut.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#66 Red Devil

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 08:18 PM

gee theres some elbow grease in this thing

#67 Pane

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 09:03 PM

G'day

Good info on the welder, thats the model i was going to go with.

Cheers
If its too low your too tall!

#68 81foxdwagon

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 09:08 PM

Thanks for all the comments guys, they are much appreciated.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#69 DK_1984

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 11:42 PM

Nice work, looks good. I like to see a pic of the exhaust over the diff. Looks like a fun project.

#70 DK_1984

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 11:46 PM

Do you have a rear sway bar? If not are you going to put one in? I was thinking of putting one in my wagon. Also what diff are you going to run?

#71 Classic Plastic

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 12:13 AM

awsome wagon . love your work ........ lucky you not my neibour or i would be in your shed all the time . nice aray of equipment there . :hy:
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Project.

tp://www.xfalcon.com/forum/showthread.php?35374-the-Classic-Plastic-project[/URL]-.

#72 PSI_LTD

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 04:27 PM

yeah, i would constantly pop over to borrow welder, etc
'01 BMW M3 - in storage
'85 zl turbo - in storage - for sale!! PM ME
daily: size 13 feet

#73 Pane

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 06:51 PM

G'day

Add me to the want to borrow your tools list.

Cheers
If its too low your too tall!

#74 81foxdwagon

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 07:28 PM

Just for clarification for people who want to boost friendly their VFF30 Lockoff:

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Here is a bit of a bad pic of a Boost Referenced VFF30.

What we are aiming to do is pressurise the diaphram on the revese side to boost pressure so the lockoff doesnt close up when we hit boost.

All that is required is to:

- The Lockoff MUST BE OFF THE CAR. This makes sure there is no LPG ANYWHERE. If you dont know what your doing, DONT DO ANY OF THIS.

- Unbolt the front diaphragm cover of the VFF30 (the cover that has IMPCO VFF30 written on it). This is the cover on the Left Hand Side of the above image. Behind the cover is the vacuum diaphragm which opens/closes the gas port. Place the diaphram aside.

- You will see that the alloy cover has a small hole in the centre. What we need to do is enlarge this hole so that we can tap a thread in it.

- I enlarged this hole and tapped a 1/8 BSP thread in it. You will see that impco have made a nice meaty bit in the cover to tap a thread in.

- Buy yourself a 1/8 BSP thread to 1/4" nipple so that you can connect the balance line up. You can see my nice brass right angle in the picture.

- Use some teflon tape and screw in your 1/4" nipple. Dont overtighten and strip your thread.

- Get some O-Ring grease and lube up the mating surfaces on the diaphram.

- Reassemble the front cover.

Easy as that! Now you can connect your newly fitted balance line up to the charge pipe before the Impco / GRA mixer.

The vaccuum port on the lockoff STILL CONNECTS to the manifold AFTER THE THROTTLEBODY. The lockoff works on the prinicple that the manifold pressure is always going to be a bit less than BOOST pressure since the throttlebody is restrictive.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#75 81foxdwagon

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 07:39 PM

Do you have a rear sway bar? If not are you going to put one in? I was thinking of putting one in my wagon. Also what diff are you going to run?


At the moment she still has stock leaf springs, but with new monroe shockers. I did have GAS-A-JUST airbag shocks in it, but the airbags started to leak. The GAS-A-JUST ones were heaps better though, just couldnt afford to replace them.

A swaybar probably would be a good idea. When the boost comes on the diff twists up a fair bit and tries to light up the LH wheel.

I will be swapping the diff with an E series wagon diff when the funds permit. At the moment its got a tired old 3.23:1 stocker in it. I do love the 3.23:1 ratio though, gives the car heaps of punch through the gears.

I'll also see if I can dig out a pic of the exhaust diff bends. I think it took about 8 mandrels to do it....

Also if you guys want to get decent tools for your shed you cant look past machinery auctions. I got my lathe, power hacksaw, workbench and a heap of extension cords a few months back. The lathe was $300, hacksaw was about $150, workbench $40, cords $10. Do a heap of shopping around though. Some auctions have ********s which bid too high, but occasionally you go to one that has stuff all people there. Then you get the bargains.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#76 XFT-747

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Posted 17 May 2008 - 08:47 AM

Thanks for that matt, great help with the boost friendly VFF30


#77 TOY35I

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 09:16 PM

looking good number one

#78 81foxdwagon

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 10:15 PM

Time for another update.

After the stocko ignition decided it would be best to stuff up and make me push the car I decided to get into gear with the EDIS stuff.

Did a bit of reading on the forums here. I cant actually find anyone on these forums that has got EDIS running on an X-Falcon (correct me if im wrong).....

Firstly I decided to fit up my Honda thermo fan to the radiator. Lathed up a spacer for the top bolt and welded up and angle iron / square tube bracket for the bottom cowling. I cant run EF thermos because my radiator is too narrow. A wider one isnt an option either, as my cooler piping is in the way. Pics:

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Fan has stacks of power, would be better with more cowling area. It does nicely for winter though. When summer rolls around I will most likely upgrade again.

Now onto EDIS... Decided to jump into the deep end here and go for it. I got the writeups off of bowling and grippo (megasquirt people) which explained how the trigger must be mounted in relation to the VR sensor.

A word of warning here. The diagram which shows the 6 teeth ahead of the missing teeth is shown from the REAR of the crank pulley, not the front. I wasted half a day since I mounted the trigger wheel backwards :weirdo:

After fixing that blunder I put the balancer back on for the billionth time. This time one of my tapped threads hit into the damn timing cover nose. For those of you who havent machined the rear of your balancer before fitting the edis wheel I wish you luck. Even with the trigger wheel sitting an extra 3mm back its still very very very tight. Balancer off again, machined some more... Then it fit.

Then I set about mounting the VR sensor. Another word of warning here. Centre of VR sensor IS NOT NECESSARILY WHERE IT TRIGGERS. First time I mounted it up the damn thing was firing at TDC.

After some 'tweaking' I got the base timing to 18deg BTDC. Now this is a lot higher than the 10deg base recommended. Im happy with this though. With the EDIS running in limp home mode I will have 18deg timing, which is a fine by me. The edis is capable of retarding the timing back by 20deg, so its not like im going to have troubles (who runs 2deg BTDC).

Heres some PICS:

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Once all this was done I set up the coil packs. Got some AU ones from my mate at the wreckers. He recommended these as the EF ones were really bad for failures. I mounted them on the firewall using the threads for the old charcoal canister. Below you can see the bracket I made, pretty thin thing.

After all that effort it looked like this:

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Then I wired it all up to the EDIS6 module I got from the states:

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I then prayed it wouldnt backfire and blow the 425 up whilst turning the key. Fired up straight away, timing was still at 18deg (I have no external EDIS controller ATM, so its running a static 18deg timing).

I also got up the courage to take it for a drive. I must admit it felt very solid. No hesitations, no backfires. It almost felt like it came onto boost easier too. Im surprised how well it actually runs with static timing.

So there you have it, EDIS does work. :D

I have already started building a microcontroller to control the timing using RPM, MAT and MAP sensors. Should be ready to go in a couple of weeks, although uni is getting busy now so it might be more like months :(

Also I must get some better plug leads. The ones in the pic are stocko XF EFI jobs. Will get some 9mm Eagle Eliminators into it.

I will post some more pics up when its all tidied up. These pics were pretty rush jobs.

Any questions about EDIS im happy to answer. Send me a PM or reply here.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144

#79 XFT-747

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 11:33 PM

Great work matt, going good i see, keep up the good work


#80 81foxdwagon

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Posted 02 June 2008 - 11:17 PM

Minor update.

Was driving the car today and I decided I wasnt happy with the LPG mixtures.

On boost its fine, but anytime else its just crappy. Idle is way rich, cruise is way lean. When you coast its crackling like crazy.

I got thinking and firstly checked a few things. First stop was making sure the 425 wasnt actually a feedback type, and its not. Also checked for obvious vacuum leaks etc. All looks ok.

Now since the 425 is designed for V8 applications I figure the airflow through the mixer is damn slow at cruise and idle, especially since the motor is stock. The slow airflow is probably not enough to open the diaphragm sufficiently (since its got a pretty stiff spring holding it back). That would explain my lean cruise mixtures. When you give it stick, airflow is a plenty and it all comes good.

Im planning to take out the stock spring to measure its tension. I'll probably then head down to some type of spring joint and get some weaker ones and try them 1 by 1. Luckily its a piece of cake to get the spring out.

If I have some decent success I will post back on here with results.
X-Flow turbo... now here. More Pics & Vid added 16/6
http://www.xfalcon.c...read.php?t=8585

Budget Spec Ute - More pics added 16/1/10
http://www.xfalcon.c...ead.php?t=11144




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