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How to DOHC a XF (the Snailracing way!)


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#21 Cruizin Central

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Posted 09 February 2008 - 10:33 AM

Great write up and nice clear photos are awesome.

I know its too late now, but do you think it would have been possible to make a new alternator bracket? It looks to me like just a piece of 4mm steel, making a new one so the alternator sits up by 30mm and maybe a little out further from the engine to stop it hitting the P/S pump and you wouldn't need to cut into the structural K frame...

Ren.

#22 Snailracing

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Posted 09 February 2008 - 04:38 PM

Great write up and nice clear photos are awesome.

I know its too late now, but do you think it would have been possible to make a new alternator bracket? It looks to me like just a piece of 4mm steel, making a new one so the alternator sits up by 30mm and maybe a little out further from the engine to stop it hitting the P/S pump and you wouldn't need to cut into the structural K frame...

Ren.


Yeh your right, but I don't have the skills!!! I did check with the engineer before I cut the K frame, and he's ok'd it, and the little peice of panel steel required to take its place is eaiser for me to make than a whole new alt bracket!

I'm having enough problems (ie lack of skill) making a replacement pully to remove the A/C pump!

I hope people aren't thinking that i'm skilled at anything! I only sell carparts, but I do have good friends with many skills, and that whats made the job eaiser for me!
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#23 Snailracing

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Posted 09 February 2008 - 05:19 PM

Saw something else on Thursday that grabbed my attention. It was a Toyota Landcruiser that had had a 5' lift kit installed. Because of the lift the sway bar nor longer reached the chassis mounts. To slove this the had used some manufactured "I" mounts that acted as the spacer required to take up the space required.

I'm thinking that this might be a cheeper way of sorting the sway bar problem I have so I'm going to look into it.

The vehcile was certified to drive on NZ roads this way, so I'm going to check it out with my local engineer.

Posted Image
Rough drawing of what i'm trying to explain.
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#24 FoX

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 03:56 PM

very good mate!!!!

this has proven to be very useful for the future,
and you dont need to be majorly skilled to do things like this,

its good to see someone like me just going ahead and tackling this head on,
and its good that your exploring all the different possibilities!!

cheers mate!
Hey there, Im Brett


why put miles on ur pride and joy when u can put them on a shit box holden :D


#25 FoX

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 03:58 PM

oh, one thing i was wondering,

u couldnt have the bar come too low as there really isnt much room is therE?
Hey there, Im Brett


why put miles on ur pride and joy when u can put them on a shit box holden :D


#26 Snailracing

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 06:27 PM

I've talked to the Engineer yesterday and he is happy for me to do it this way. As fro FOX's concerns on clearence, I don't think it's going to be a problem as my ute isn't savagely low. I think the end result the bottom of my intercooler will sit lower than the sway bar. Time will tell though.
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#27 maidenfan

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 10:06 PM

If you cut the cross member to make room for the alt, will the engineer knock that back?
Because I put an AU motor in my XF and the alt pulley misses by about 5mm but I want to engineer mine. One rev and it will probably hit.

#28 Snailracing

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Posted 08 March 2008 - 09:54 PM

If you cut the cross member to make room for the alt, will the engineer knock that back?
Because I put an AU motor in my XF and the alt pulley misses by about 5mm but I want to engineer mine. One rev and it will probably hit.


You'll have to check with a engineer in your state/country, but yes i've checked with my engineer here in NEW ZEALAND and as long as I replace the volume of steel removed I can cut the K frame as per my pictures.
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#29 PSI_LTD

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 03:43 PM

if youre still stuck on the aircon issue, go to ford and buy an ac idler bracket. it replaces the ac bracket and compressor.

some ba utes were sold without aircon, so this part is readily available
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#30 Snailracing

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 07:10 PM

if youre still stuck on the aircon issue, go to ford and buy an ac idler bracket. it replaces the ac bracket and compressor.

some ba utes were sold without aircon, so this part is readily available


Cool thanks! I didn't think it was available for BA!! I had the EF non AC setup on my EF Turbo engine.
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#31 PSI_LTD

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 12:27 AM

glad i could help. i worked at ford engine design for a year, so i might be able to answer some questions that you may have
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#32 Snailracing

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 08:16 PM

if youre still stuck on the aircon issue, go to ford and buy an ac idler bracket. it replaces the ac bracket and compressor.

some ba utes were sold without aircon, so this part is readily available


Check it out today, RRP over $1200!!!! Just for the mount and pully!!
My friendly dealer can get it for me @ $900 though, but holy cr*p.

As a side note though, it took a while to convince him that a BA came out without AC (Never happened in NZ).

Does being an ex employee get you a REALLY good discount?
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#33 PSI_LTD

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:43 PM

no, dont think so. 1200? holy moly. get one fabricated for much less
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#34 Snailracing

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 07:51 PM

no, dont think so. 1200? holy moly. get one fabricated for much less


Yip, Had already started one. But when you told me about the factory one, my brain went into "MMmmmm Factory standardness" Mode!!

BTW I like the factory look!
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#35 PSI_LTD

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 03:05 PM

true, but not for that price
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#36 Snailracing

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Posted 11 May 2008 - 03:41 PM

true, but not for that price


Agreed! But still might PM Ferntree see if they have a s/h one for sale! :hy:
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#37 js97futura

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Posted 24 May 2008 - 05:37 PM

so about how much would it be to put a DOHC in? just to get it goin not with any additional mods?
cheers

#38 Snailracing

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 07:22 PM

so about how much would it be to put a DOHC in? just to get it goin not with any additional mods?
cheers


Approx?
S/hand Turbo engine $4000NZD (Gearbox maybe $1500NZD manual)
Computer to run it $1250AUD ($2250NZD)
Brackets for mounting $85 + maybe $10 for steel to make drop down plates
XG swaybar $85 s/hand $125 new (approx)
Gearbox mount $100 to get made (approx)
Tuning and wiring $1200 approx
Exhaust manifold if turbo $1200

Other things you might need (approx only)
Fuel pump $200
run extra fuel line if not EFI $60
Good Clutch $400 (if Turbo)
Exhaust $400 (could modify existing)
Driveshaft modification? $100

All up somewhere around the $10kNZD mark if you get it all done for you and you use all new bits.

Now I know why it's taking me so long!!
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#39 PSI_LTD

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 11:04 PM

wont the standard manifold fit?
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#40 Snailracing

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 03:58 PM

wont the standard manifold fit?


Alas not. The standard exhaust manifold sits the turbo below the manifold, and with the shock towers of the X series in a v ( \ / ) the turbo hits the tower before the engine is lowered into its correct location. If your refering to the inlet, then yes you can keep it standard and just bolt a EF-AU throttle body on it.
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