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How to DOHC a XF (the Snailracing way!)


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#1 Snailracing

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 06:30 PM

So I've been reading a few other DOHC conversion threads and a lot of people have asked questons on who its done, and asked for pics, So I thought I'd help out!

I'll start with the Engine mounting, because I beleive most people on this Forum will be capiable of doing it!
You'll Need:
DOHC engine,
XG or EA Engine mounts (i'm not 100% sure on the EA mounts, but its commonly mentioned on this Forum and others so it should be all good!)
Some Flat steel approx 100x120x8-10mm thick.
Because the DOHC is is much taller than any of the previous I6 engines if you mount the mounts normally you won't be able to close the bonnet without cutting it up.
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As you can see the plate is bolted to the block (all the holes are there) and the mount is bolted HIGHER up the block thus lowering the block down low enough. I think from memory 18mm was the engine height drop.
Note: When installing the engine the sway bar, and the alternator will Fowl, you'll need to first drop the sway bar D mounts, and remove the alternator.
As stated the sway bar fowls the Engine sump, there is 2 ways to sort this.
a) modify the front of the sump (has been done many times before)
B) get the sway bar re-manufatured to go around the sump (This is the way i'm going, just haven't got there yet!)
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Next probem is the alternator. in its factory location the pully sits on the K frame. I've spoken to my local engineer who will be signing off my conversion for road use and he has given me the OK to cut out a section of the K frame and replace it making a Vally for the Alternator pully to sit in.
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Wohla - Engine sitting in the engine bay!! Simple, and took me less than 4 hours to remove the old OHC engine and have the DOHC sitting in there.

I'll put a progress pictures as I sort out other things like Heater pipes, gearbox mounts etc etc as I get to them.

PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS! I'll awnser what I can, as will others i'm sure!
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#2 BIGCAV

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 10:38 PM

at the moment i dont need to ask any questions but thanks heaps for putting that up, very good read.

c1tb.jpg

 

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#3 XF0747

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 10:42 PM

good idea, gonna make this a sticky

Chris' Porting Service
Cylinder Head & Manifold Porting
Street & Race Engines
0404 626 742


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#4 geohatrick

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 10:56 AM

Thanks heaps for this very helpful. How did it go fitting up gearbox ect?
Cheers Zac
Brown fairlane.... slow & lowered!

#5 Snailracing

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 07:09 PM

Thanks heaps for this very helpful. How did it go fitting up gearbox ect?
Cheers Zac


I'm using the factory BA T5 g/box so it bolts up as it should. My gearbox mounts will be a little different to most XF's as we had unpicked the EA-ED gearbox mounts and welded them in place to mount the EF BTR autotrans I used to run. If anyone would like pictures of this, or of the final gearbox mount install (When it gets done) I'll be happy to take pic's and show.
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#6 falconxf88

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 07:33 PM

hey thanks for taking the time to post this up, i plan on doing pretty much the same thing in about 6 months or so.

#7 Snailracing

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 06:09 PM

Thought I better Post up some pics of the cut out of the K frame I've had to make so the Alternator and belt clears.

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Also here is THE MOST IMPORTANT part in any rebuild/conversion
Plastic Bags and a Marker pen!! If you pull a bolt off and don't put it back on within 1/2 hour, put it in a bag, write what it is and put it in a parts bin or box. That way you won't 1: Loose it (like I have) and 2: You know which bolt goes where when its time to put it back in!
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Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#8 lowxdute

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 09:31 PM

This is sweet. Didnt realise you could fit the DOHC in this easy really. So you running straight petrol is it a bf 190kw engine or a 182kw ba? What about the drive by wire throttle and Dual infinate VCT or whatever it is? Also what the full weight difference of a bf engine and T5 to say an xf 250xflow and T5? Power and torque to weight will be very good.
ZAC

#9 FoX

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 09:53 PM

how much is a second hand DOHC engine nower days?
could be a cheap alternative for my daily once im further into my app...
Hey there, Im Brett


why put miles on ur pride and joy when u can put them on a shit box holden :D


#10 PSI_LTD

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 12:48 AM

what i wanna know is how people control the vct nowadays
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#11 drew442

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 07:54 AM

there is two servo's on the front of the motor i'd say. something simple like 0v full retard, 12v full advance
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12 months off the forum. Average posts is still 5 per day.

#12 Steve Mcqueen

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 08:21 AM

Good on you snailracing for this thread. So keep us updated with pics and progress as it will assist others in ideas and clues on how to takle theres.
I will be checking in from time to time myself. :hy:

#13 Snailracing

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 04:28 PM

This is sweet. Didnt realise you could fit the DOHC in this easy really. So you running straight petrol is it a bf 190kw engine or a 182kw ba? What about the drive by wire throttle and Dual infinate VCT or whatever it is? Also what the full weight difference of a bf engine and T5 to say an xf 250xflow and T5? Power and torque to weight will be very good.
ZAC


HI, The engine is a 2002 XR6-T (Ute) 240kw engine, with the fly-by-wire throttle i'm binning it all together and using a aftermarket 80mm throttle body on a home made plennum. But I've looked a using a EF/EL throttle body and it looks like it a straight bolt on. With the VCT, it is opperated via a voltage signal via the computer. In my case I'm planning on using a Wolf 3D V500 which I have had Wolf EMS conferm will be upto the job, I have also been told that without the signal the cams are locked in the 0deg position so there isn't any absolute need to run this function.
Weight wise, who knows! I don't care!! The extra intercooling piping, manifolds, turbo, sound deadening, audio gear is going to make the ute A LOT heavier than factory, but i'm working on approx 300rwkw's which should make up for the extra weight!
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#14 Snailracing

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 04:33 PM

how much is a second hand DOHC engine nower days?
could be a cheap alternative for my daily once im further into my app...


NZ Prices only sorry, but you'd own this engine at $350!!
http://www.trademe.c...n-139806809.htm

Turbo engines approx $3000-4000 complete but non turbo engines are common now!

Dunno if you need a Turbo engine really, Nothing is different that you don't need to replace anyway (Exhaust manifold) Save yourslef the money and get a NA one and built a T from it!
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#15 FoX

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 05:25 PM

thanks for that mate!
iv always wanted to make myn an XF6 Typhoon...
averything typhoon, including the colours and rims,
but with the better looking body ;D
Hey there, Im Brett


why put miles on ur pride and joy when u can put them on a shit box holden :D


#16 RSWEPN

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 05:30 PM

what i wanna know is how people control the vct nowadays


with a Motec computer, motec can also control the fly by wire throttle but u have to have the pedal box from a BA, or something like that.

#17 geohatrick

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Posted 08 February 2008 - 03:31 PM

Dunno if you need a Turbo engine really, Nothing is different that you don't need to replace anyway (Exhaust manifold) Save yourslef the money and get a NA one and built a T from it!


N/a motors have higher compression weaker valve springs and if you get a newer turbo motor bf they have stronger rods. The old ba motors 03 have really weak valve springs that top out around 250rwkw the ba mk2 springs are slightly stronger bf have the strongest. New Bf turbo motors have bottom ends that will handle 400+rwkw where as ba motors will only hold 330-350rwkw with a good tune.

Cheers Zac

P.s look at rapid systems new plenum they are one of the cheapest after market turbo plenums on the market i think the website is http://www.rapidsyst...ndex.php?p=1_16
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#18 KLR250

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Posted 08 February 2008 - 07:13 PM

lol @ $1495

that aint cheap, never ceases to amaze me what people pay for a cast intake plenum

if i couldnt build 4 for that price id go sell my cars and buy a volkwagon bettle
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#19 Snailracing

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Posted 09 February 2008 - 09:49 AM

lol @ $1495

that aint cheap, never ceases to amaze me what people pay for a cast intake plenum

if i couldnt build 4 for that price id go sell my cars and buy a volkwagon bettle


Yeh so far mines cost me $200 for the profile cutting and materials! But I'm going to have to fork out another $80 at least as I made an error with the port locations on the base plate. I think it will also cost be a bottle of Jack fro the welding, so all up maybe $330 to make a custom one to suit my vehicle (If it works!)

And @ $1495 your fogetting freight to NZ and duty on imported goods!
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!

#20 Snailracing

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Posted 09 February 2008 - 09:54 AM

N/a motors have higher compression weaker valve springs and if you get a newer turbo motor bf they have stronger rods. The old ba motors 03 have really weak valve springs that top out around 250rwkw the ba mk2 springs are slightly stronger bf have the strongest. New Bf turbo motors have bottom ends that will handle 400+rwkw where as ba motors will only hold 330-350rwkw with a good tune.

Cheers Zac

P.s look at rapid systems new plenum they are one of the cheapest after market turbo plenums on the market i think the website is http://www.rapidsyst...ndex.php?p=1_16


Valve springs even in the BA Turbo engine are weak! I'm replacing mine as a mater of corse anyway. As for the higher compression - just keep the boost low! The likes of Audi and VW have been using hi comp low boost engines for years! Thats the beauty of having a 4000cc+ engine its able to make power the old fashioned way, adding boost just makes it better! Heaps have turboed the old OHC engines running standard compression and have been really happy with the results, and if the difference in price is over $1000 the NA engine is a serious consideration for someone on a tighter budget.
Only milk and juice should come in 2ltr's!




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