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351 cleveland overheating on highway/high speed


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#1 mara747

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 11:20 PM

Hello and happy new year to you all!

ive recenlty built a 351 cleveland and it likes to heat up on the highway or at high speeds.
Its a 40thou up block, 2v open chamber heads, mild cam, edelbrock performer and a 650 dp classic holley, dizzy has been graphed to suit cam specs, with a c10 and 3000 stall ad 3.5 gears in the diff.

Im Running a correct clevo thermostat that opens at 71 degrees celcius. Lower radiator hose has a spring in it, i have a brand new adrad 3 core copper/brass radiator, running correct mixture coolant, ive bled the system many ways, up on a hill, jacked up the front, had a bleeder bowl on the radiator. Im not sure what the issue is.

When its a cold night or day it doesn't over heat on the freeway but when its hot or warm it does. I can leave to idle all day and it wont over heat, it will sit at half or just under on the temp gauge. But when i jump on the highway or do 80+ kph she creeps up to 3/4 sometimes even all the way. Ive done a combustion leak test 3 times and it came back all clear. I used a second hand water pump that i already had, could it be cavitating? Im running 10 degree advance at idle. Are my head gaskets on the wrong way? When i put them on im sure i had them on correctly so that no water jackets were being blocked. Also im running ford bf falcon twin thermos that come on at 85 degrees celsius and turn off at 75. They work good and proper and spin the right way. Ive flushed the block 3 times and the heater core and the new rad once.

Also my top radiator hose has alot of pressure in it and has started to swell around the radiator end, and it is a brand new hose.



Please help!

#2 351XD_Fairmont

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 12:01 AM

Sounds like you might have a blockage in the radiator but if you've flushed the whole system? Have you tried swapping to a higher temp thermostat, throw in a tridon unit around 80 degrees or so?

#3 mara747

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 11:55 AM

Yeah man ive flushed the whole thing and the rad is brand new! Im bloody lost!

Ive just bypassed the heater core in going to go for a drive and see how it goes. I havent tried a higher tenp thermostat but ill give it a shot tyanks for your advice 351XD.

#4 351XD_Fairmont

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 02:23 PM

No problem mate

#5 SPArKy_Dave

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Posted 08 January 2016 - 02:34 AM

The clevo thermostats, are listed wrong in the Tridon catalogue.

The ones listed, flow too much, and/or people don't run the bypass section correctly installed.

 

I was reading a thread about this very thing, on Ozfalcon just recently.

 

Most brands sell the Windsor high flow thermostats as suitable for Clevo's, but they're not.

 

Have a read -

http://www.ozfalcon....1-over-heating/


Lol Rainbow. Your brain doesn't automatically come up with stupid solutions. You actually have to make a concious choice.


#6 mara747

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 02:18 PM

351XD i tried a higher thermostat and it reacted the same.

Ive got a dayco 160F thermostat correct for clevo.

#7 Outback Jack

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 02:21 PM

Fan belt slipping on the water pump? Loose belt...... things may melt.
How many core radiator is it?....
Do you have an oil cooler on the auto?
3.5 diff gears....how many revs you pulling flying up the highway?

It may be running too lean and overheating or timing/dizzy not correct.

If its none of those things. ... take radiator back where you got it and tell em to flow test it make sure theres not a huge restriction in it.
Jack.

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You Can't park that Holden in MY Driveway.......................This is Ford Country.

 

 

I had my Ute raised when everybody was lowering theirs so I could drive over shit.

A Country Ute need to actually be able to get over a speed hump... or it's no good for the farm.

 

 


#8 351XD_Fairmont

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 06:12 PM

Yeah I'd be sending the radiator out to be checked if it's still overheating and there's much pressure in the top hose

#9 Judgetread

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 06:39 PM

as Outback Jack say could be a bit lean


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#10 Rompa

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:49 PM

Check your thermostat for scuff marks this means it sticks, is the radiator cap using a overflow bottle if so the cap needs both pressure and vacuum valves otherwise it wont retrieve the coolant it will just keep extracting it when hot.



#11 JasonShone@hotmail.com

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 02:14 PM

Did you end up solving your problem?  I have exactly the same problem, overheating on highway and no problem at idle.  393 stroker, built by professional engine builder.  I have twin thermos pulling 3200 CFM of air.  Engine builder says to go with a clutch fan, but to me it's not going to work because I am overheating when on the highway.  Please help!



#12 SPArKy_Dave

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 05:12 PM

Did you end up solving your problem?  I have exactly the same problem, overheating on highway and no problem at idle.  393 stroker, built by professional engine builder.  I have twin thermos pulling 3200 CFM of air.  Engine builder says to go with a clutch fan, but to me it's not going to work because I am overheating when on the highway.  Please help!

 

If it were me, I'd ask the question on Ozfalcon dude...
there are alot of knowledgeable/old-school Cleveland blokes on OzFalcon.


Lol Rainbow. Your brain doesn't automatically come up with stupid solutions. You actually have to make a concious choice.


#13 mara747

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 07:23 PM

Did you end up solving your problem? I have exactly the same problem, overheating on highway and no problem at idle. 393 stroker, built by professional engine builder. I have twin thermos pulling 3200 CFM of air. Engine builder says to go with a clutch fan, but to me it's not going to work because I am overheating when on the highway. Please help!


Hey mate,

Still havent fixed it, tried everything. Took the top end apart to check for backward head gasket but they were on the right way, had heads re done and crack tested, changed the manifold to an air gap, changed water pump, went back to clutch fan and shroud but still same, put twin ba thermos with dual relay and slow burn fuse set up, pulls heaps of air, tried alot more. In the end ive found my car likes to sit at 3/4 on the freeway and 1/3 around town. Had it on a dyno to check afr’s and theyre all good. Timing is spot on.
Its got me baffled, i upgraded to a twin 2.5” exhaust to allow better flow and still same thing. Ive accepted i have a clevo that runs hot. Ive done alot more research in to why this can happen and how to fix it but ill be building another motor eventually and im happy with this one for now. Goes good and hasnt let me down.

My advice to you is go back to your engine builder and tell him what is going on.

Is it a new radiator in the car? Does it throw water out of the overflow? What car is it in?

#14 mara747

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 07:25 PM

If it were me, I'd ask the question on Ozfalcon dude...
there are alot of knowledgeable/old-school Cleveland blokes on OzFalcon.

Mate ive spoken to every bloke i could about this. Engine builders, old school blokes, you name it ive done. Even blokes in america. In the end tried everythigg they said and still here with the same issue.

#15 Outback Jack

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Posted 26 June 2018 - 09:44 AM

Only thing ... did you check the thermostat housing is correct?
Sometimes wrong type causes thermostat to not open properly. .. causing a restriction.
Another is water pump wrong.... impeller not increasing flow at rpm.

A Clevo should be able to run 16 degrees advance easy and still not overheat... even in traffic.... without thernos.

If not thermostat housing/ pump restriction.... its the radiator.....
Regardless of what they say I always go a larger core in radiator for better flow.... thermostat will do its job if it cools too much.
You wont notice restriction till at higher rpm... fans are goin nuts... not cooling as much.... because the liquid moves too slow.

Also.... take the advice on the radiator cap... needs to be able to drag coolant back and forwards with temps from the overflow bottle.

Also the pressire in the top hose points to bad high rpm flow... its getting past thermostat... but getting held up by radiator.
It is a 393 stroker.... its gonna need a big rad.

Jack.

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You Can't park that Holden in MY Driveway.......................This is Ford Country.

 

 

I had my Ute raised when everybody was lowering theirs so I could drive over shit.

A Country Ute need to actually be able to get over a speed hump... or it's no good for the farm.

 

 


#16 mara747

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Posted 26 June 2018 - 10:32 PM

Only thing ... did you check the thermostat housing is correct?
Sometimes wrong type causes thermostat to not open properly. .. causing a restriction.
Another is water pump wrong.... impeller not increasing flow at rpm.

A Clevo should be able to run 16 degrees advance easy and still not overheat... even in traffic.... without thernos.

If not thermostat housing/ pump restriction.... its the radiator.....
Regardless of what they say I always go a larger core in radiator for better flow.... thermostat will do its job if it cools too much.
You wont notice restriction till at higher rpm... fans are goin nuts... not cooling as much.... because the liquid moves too slow.

Also.... take the advice on the radiator cap... needs to be able to drag coolant back and forwards with temps from the overflow bottle.

Also the pressire in the top hose points to bad high rpm flow... its getting past thermostat... but getting held up by radiator.
It is a 393 stroker.... its gonna need a big rad.

Jack.

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#17 mara747

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Posted 26 June 2018 - 10:35 PM

Only thing ... did you check the thermostat housing is correct?
Sometimes wrong type causes thermostat to not open properly. .. causing a restriction.
Another is water pump wrong.... impeller not increasing flow at rpm.

A Clevo should be able to run 16 degrees advance easy and still not overheat... even in traffic.... without thernos.

If not thermostat housing/ pump restriction.... its the radiator.....
Regardless of what they say I always go a larger core in radiator for better flow.... thermostat will do its job if it cools too much.
You wont notice restriction till at higher rpm... fans are goin nuts... not cooling as much.... because the liquid moves too slow.

Also.... take the advice on the radiator cap... needs to be able to drag coolant back and forwards with temps from the overflow bottle.

Also the pressire in the top hose points to bad high rpm flow... its getting past thermostat... but getting held up by radiator.
It is a 393 stroker.... its gonna need a big rad.

Jack.

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Thanks for the reply jack. Ive changed every part you have mentioned. New 3 core copper radiator. New water pump, different thermostats, different housing, tried the lot.... ive exhausted every avenue possible. Might doesnt overheat or run hot in traffic. Only on the freewaybit likes to sit at around 3/4 temp or 195/200 farenheit.

#18 Outback Jack

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 09:33 AM

You use 4 core radiators on 351's mate....not 3 core. Worked.... definately 4 core.
Bet your 3 core isnt restricted. ... but not flowing enough.
Your temps are like 87-95 degrees C.
Thats not bad... it could be a little cooler but its acceptable..... 85-92C be spot on.. might be your too lean in the secondaries or something if ya getting a tad extra heat up there cruising. ..... leaning at high rpm.

Jack.



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5f0679eb-c1e0-42e1-b938-f63b5cd59a98_zps

 

 

 


You Can't park that Holden in MY Driveway.......................This is Ford Country.

 

 

I had my Ute raised when everybody was lowering theirs so I could drive over shit.

A Country Ute need to actually be able to get over a speed hump... or it's no good for the farm.

 

 


#19 mara747

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 12:04 PM

You use 4 core radiators on 351's mate....not 3 core. Worked.... definately 4 core.
Bet your 3 core isnt restricted. ... but not flowing enough.
Your temps are like 87-95 degrees C.
Thats not bad... it could be a little cooler but its acceptable..... 85-92C be spot on.. might be your too lean in the secondaries or something if ya getting a tad extra heat up there cruising. ..... leaning at high rpm.

Jack.



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Everyone i know with a 51 wither has a 3 core or 4 core and no dramas what so ever. Had the car on the dyno to check afrat high rpm and they were pretty good, but ill try the 4 core and see if it helpsand fatten up the secondaires just to be sure. Thanks for the advice.It can rise to above 210 sometimes depending on weather outside. Every other one of mi mates cars sits at 170-180 and stays there regardless of weather.

#20 Outback Jack

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 05:44 PM

Im outta ideas beside those mate.
Im clutchin at straws... your doing everything right.... dont stress.
It will be something dumb.

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5f0679eb-c1e0-42e1-b938-f63b5cd59a98_zps

 

 

 


You Can't park that Holden in MY Driveway.......................This is Ford Country.

 

 

I had my Ute raised when everybody was lowering theirs so I could drive over shit.

A Country Ute need to actually be able to get over a speed hump... or it's no good for the farm.

 

 





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