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How to I.D a nascar/ pillow block clevo... Some Pics.


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#41 408clevo

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Posted 26 April 2010 - 09:58 AM

And here is some pictures for the people that don't know what the thicker mains and pan rails look like. Look at the first picture and you can see that my D2AE-CA Pillowblock has the normal casting around the mains and std pan rails that arnt real thick.
The second is the XE192540 block and you can clearly see the mains are a lot thicker and you can't really see the rough casting is it was real thick and has been machined flat. And look under where the sump bolts on, its is all filled in with metal as opposed to the std/Pillowblock.

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#42 Thom

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Posted 27 April 2010 - 12:32 AM

yeah it looks like to bottom picture shame i never took one before the short was assembled
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#43 zop454

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 02:21 PM

Hey guys here is my 20 cents worth, i have been sonic testing blocks for customers for over 23 years (in business 28 years) but we had the first real BHJ sonic tester in the country. I have found that all blocks regardless year or pillow or so called nascar etc differ from each other.I cannot say i found one particular year or deignated block to be perfect all the time. Core shift was a huge problem with cleveland engines. Some were very bad on the passenger side rear and some around the no 5 and 6 cylinders. The camshaft tunnel varied to the lifter bore degrees by up to 11 degrees resulting in different valve timing events etc, unless you fitted bronze lifter bore bushes and corrected them. Now in my opinion clevelands have a not so great firing order as no 6 fires just before no 5 resulting in all kinds of problems - third plane balancing issues- lean cylinder conditions because 6 robs all the fuel off no 5 in the intake plenum chamber-crankshaft journal stress factors - bore distortion through bell ringing through top block deck plate-oil frothing through conrod crank journal distortion -and massive localised cylinder pressure windage sharing resulting in oil being forced back past the oil rings on no 5 cyl . now without getting too specific i would definitely get your bores sonic checked. It doesn't matter what block you have , if it is prepared properly it will go the distance. We have built an early block 351 clevo two bolt mains which has had a block stabilisation program and also balanced properly which our customer turns to 9670rpm . this is over on the salt so it is revved to 9760 through the gears then sits on 8400 rpm for the last 4 miles constantly.As an engine builder it makes the hair on my back stand up. it's not nice to hear it scream from where i stand but a glorious cleveland sound is the best sound you will hear. The engine was built in 2003 and still going. Yes it has all the tricks and make no mistake it has taken me 9 months to build.It has run 201 mph in an XA coupe which weighs 2900lb and has the aerodynamics of a mac truck. It runs 4V cast iron heads which i have spent five months finding the right flow -tumble-and velocity (not massive airflow) from . Anyhow without boring you to tears and getting back to the blocks, like i said make sure you spend the little bit of money and sonic test the blocks. A quick look at the rear cam plug tells the story about the cam tunnel being out. If this is offset to one side too much avoid using it for a performance application. Too much is .060 thou or more. Find a good builder and you should be ok. Anything you can do to minimise the impact of no 6 cyl robbing fuel from his mate no 5 will pay you back in dividends. cheers

#44 Jason Murphy

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 10:14 PM

What are fixes for the fuel robbing? I have never troubled myself with this problem as I never had to hold engine for any length of time at huge revs. I do take great care in ensuring I dont have crossfire between the cylinders, especially 5 and 6.
I agree with you on never knowing which blocks are going to be good, although my preference is XD-XE, I have always had better luck with bore thickness on them. I have one block in shed that is super thick for a cleveland, yet one spot on number five is only .060" thick. Very frustrating. I am at a point now that I dont want to waste my time with old cleveland blocks anymore, better off with a cheap Procomp 9.5" block. Better supported by aftermarket, no rust, thicker everywhere. About to have my first Procomp block bored. Have heard from sources in USA that they have a problem with cam tunnel out of alignment, everything else is great. will let you know how mine is.

#45 n00bus m@x1mus

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 07:17 AM

EFI would fix fuel rob but if you wanted to stay carb what a bout a custom cam grind to change the firing order by swapping compresion strokes for exhaust strokes until you find a combo that works better.

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#46 zop454

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 07:27 AM

Hi Jason, with the fuel robbing issues i would need to know more to be able to help properly. With a single plane intake you can introduce what we call shear cuts on no 5 cylinder intake tract. This is best described as .200 thou deep by 1 inch long x 3 off. We cut them at the very start of the intake tract, so looking down the top of the intake where carb flange is you would machine these with a burr grinder or cnc mill. This helps scavenge more fuel to that cyl. It disrupts and collects more excess fuel in the plenum left over from other cylinders. Then you can jet the carburettor to suit so stagger jetting the carb. So the closest jet to your problem should be three sizes up from the rest. In some instances we have also had to introduce a 5 jet system which again gets more fuel from the carb bowl to that side of the engine. We make a suited cam core with seperate lobe seps to combat the problem as well.

With procomp block be sure to check the oil pump drilling. We have machined four so far with various issues.Watch out for cam bore alignment and also lifter bore angles. cheers

#47 IGOWLD

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 07:54 AM

Keep the info coming guys this thread is a good read.
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#48 X-FLOW

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 06:26 PM

Hey there all as i was reading some information from this thread i noticed that if u have a 351c ( as i do ) and u bolt 302 closed camber heads u have compression of around 11.1 ?? if so if i bored my 351 out 20 or 30 thow and put 302 heads what would my compression be and has anyone done this before, and what problems did u have?
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#49 Jason Murphy

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 08:48 PM

Super common and successful head swap. I did it but comp was more like 11.7:1. You can definately run this comp on 98 octane, but you need a cam of around 260 @ .050 on intake, run zero deck height, block off the manifold heating with intake gasket, use cold air induction.
I also did this with a set of dished pistons, exactly 10.5:1 comp and a towing grind cam with 206 @ .050 intake, and did all the above. Used 3.0 gears and towed huge weight everywhere no problem

#50 358 svo

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:01 PM

yeah i too have done the same thing head swap ....
i put a edelbrock torker 2v manifold on comp was about 11.5.1 slight cam
750dp top loader box borg warner diff ( spooled ) man that thin hauled arse
best et was 13.1 was good fun on the street...

#51 X-FLOW

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:21 PM

cheers boys big help, do i leave standard size valves ?? i was thinking standard bore 351 with recon 2v heads ( closed camber ) roller rockers and cran cam part no. cd972866 rev range 2200/5400 full rebuild of course crack test it i was just going to run a full reco single rail and borg diff 3.5 gears hopefully it will all hold up?? and what hp am i lookin motor wise??

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#52 358 svo

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:29 PM

at the flywheel about 300 hp maybe bit more ???? i did have a single rail for a while till i found a top loader
they hold up pretty good if u got a good shifter thats not stuffed.....
just make sure the car starts to move just a tad before dumping it keeps everything engaged in the box LOL

#53 X-FLOW

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:36 PM

yeah i was thinkin around there i might look at buffin her up a bit more the more like 380-450 right cam some heads n inlet mani etc same ol deal extra coin lol :P , n yep thats the key iv never busted a single rail or chucked the shifter through the back window reco should hold up to 400 atleast??

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#54 358 svo

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:38 PM

300hp motor the toss some gas at it make well over 500 !!!! now that would be fun
with a four speed !!!!!!!!!!!

#55 X-FLOW

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:44 PM

geez thats leithil buy buy gearbox .... 1st.... 2nd... SNNAAPPP!!! hahahaha

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#56 358 svo

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:46 PM

ha ha ha ha how fast are u at shifting lol cause its by by if u **** up !!!!

#57 mcfly94

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 03:28 PM

My dad has a nascar block haha, are they rare?

#58 djjase

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:07 PM

my ute has gas but doesnt get anywhere near 500hp - i guess it being LPG gas is a bit different to the laughing type

#59 CJPerformance

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 12:17 PM

my ute has gas but doesnt get anywhere near 500hp - i guess it being LPG gas is a bit different to the laughing type


lol, yeah, LPG has a 'slightly' different effect on power than n2o does!
Craig.

#60 FREE.51

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Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:29 AM

My ford v8 book which Denotes the code XE on the clevo block as being an aussiie clevo because it has thicker cylinder walls than the American clevo block




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