View Full Version : Need Help with Unleaded Conversion to come
Hello everyone. I was just wondering if any of you would know what I have to do to my motor so that I can run straight unleaded instead of primium. I'm going to be putting
Race Rebuild Kit with flatop pistons
New Condrods?
New pushrods, Valve Spring and Hydrolic Lifters
New Water Pump and Welsh Plugs
Hardened Valve Seats
4.1 Crank
K&M?/ New Fuel, Oil and Air Filters
New Spark Plugs and 10mm Topgun Ignition leads
New Points
New Battery Terminals
Pacemaker 3/1 Extractors
5 Speed Manuel
Manuel Acc
Air Con
Air Con Acc
3 Core XF Radiator Large Idust Type
Power Steering
Gas System
Kill Switch
2 Barrel Webber Carburattor
Reco Alternator
Distributor to go with 4.1 crank and Crow Cam
New Coil?
Reco Starter Motor
Respray Motor in Original Colours after Sanblasting (High heat Paint)
There will be other stuff and there is other thing but they arn't nessicarly to do with the motor. But basicly wondering. WHAT TO DO so that it will rin straight unleaded with an E2 head and wthout pinging. Basicly so that it runs as good on unleaded that it would leaded! Thanks any suggestion welcome!
Oh this is motor (Needs a Degreese and dust I think)
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff94/78XC/60.jpg
(Also posted in Projects under 78 XC Falcon)
WYLDXF
24-12-2007, 09:00 PM
i guess it would depend on your compression ratios, the high compression ratio u go you will have to use a higher octane fuel.
lowxdute
28-12-2007, 06:49 PM
Not gunna be able to use flattops and run regular unleaded! CR would be about 10.5:1 with flattops probably so cant see that happening. If you are gunna spend all that money on your car and a 200xflow by the look of it running PULP will be the least of your $$$ worries...
ZAC
lowxdute
28-12-2007, 06:55 PM
Ok now to be helpful... Looking at your engine you have 200xflow so you are lucky you already have 200conrods so buy the "acl shorter piston to suit longrod 250 setup". Or just run stock pistons with an E2head they already setup to take ULP. Grab an E2head shave it 40thou can still just run normal ULP. Get a midrange cam around 215degrees@050" have heaps of torque and be a good daily. Have to decide exactly what you are chasing here...
ZAC
e2 would need a bit of work to drop the compression with flattops. use dished pistons, shave the head a tad.
also, what's with 13 and 15?
and if you're gonna put it on gas then you CAN bump up the compression a bit higher. but if you build it for ULP and do the LPG install later you'll have to shave the head to get the most out of it.
To answer a few questions. I am going to be spending all this $$ on my 3.3 x-flow because I'm not going to out a V8 nearly everything will be original but I want everything to be perrrrrfect! There might be a place around here that will be able to convert my head to a unleaded one so that might be good but all the suggent and pointers are STILL VERY helpful. Also it sounds crazy but I would rather have a Cast head I'll see what pans out. Oh and 13 is Air Con accessorys like a condenser and the other stuff that I will need to HAVE air con and the same with 15 eg" I'll be needing a cluch and different bell housing. That's IF I put a T5 in it... I'm still not sure that I will because people say why? Its a strong C4 no use. I might put one in my ute IF its a auto when I get one/find one... And I'm going to be spending BIG on my motor so that I don't have heaps of little **** up's later down the track witch can cost more.
To answer a few questions. I am going to be spending all this $$ on my 3.3 x-flow because I'm not going to out a V8 nearly everything will be original but I want everything to be perrrrrfect! There might be a place around here that will be able to convert my head to a unleaded one so that might be good but all the suggent and pointers are STILL VERY helpful. Also it sounds crazy but I would rather have a Cast head I'll see what pans out. Oh and 13 is Air Con accessorys like a condenser and the other stuff that I will need to HAVE air con and the same with 15 eg" I'll be needing a cluch and different bell housing. That's IF I put a T5 in it... I'm still not sure that I will because people say why? Its a strong C4 no use. I might put one in my ute IF its a auto when I get one/find one... And I'm going to be spending BIG on my motor so that I don't have heaps of little **** up's later down the track witch can cost more.
man that's just crazy :weirdo: you're saying you want nearly everything to be original but you're putting a race rebuild kit on a (possibly) t5-d 200 xflow. you'd rather mod the original cast iron head than buying an E2 and bolting it on (better power, lighter weight, runs unleaded)...
to convert your head to unleaded all you need are hardened seats. or just get any alloy head from XDII onwards...
KLR250
31-12-2007, 09:50 AM
Why would you prefer a cast iron head? There more prone to detonation, dont dissipitate heat as well as alloy, and are less ULP friendly, considering alloy heads are practically given away i dont see a single gain to be had using a **** cast iron head
lowxdute
31-12-2007, 02:56 PM
Sure you can get a 200xflow to go hard but torque will drive it easier so fit a 250crank and buy if you buy acl flattops and fit an E2 head with 98octane it would propbably run fine. I know some of you guys use steel heads as they are less prone to corrosion but the proper coolant $30 etc is fine and keep radiator flowing well they wont overheat and warp etc. You gotta seriously think about what you want out of the setup. How much hp you chasing? If you wanted your original 200xflow hotted up you could go recod steel head with hardened inserts, port matched to a better 2barrel redline manifold etc. 2barrel weber fitted on better manifold. Big cam 2600-5500pm crow awesome midrange torque. Already have a C4 so at least a 2800rpm stall convertor. Satge 2 shift kit for auto. Extractors with twin 2" secondaries (hitech headers etc) and a single 2.25" exhaust or poissibly a 2.5" exhaust if makes enough power. Should go good. Still rather the extra cubes though...
ZAC
XF0747
31-12-2007, 02:59 PM
dont they use cast iron heads for boat anchors?
S250i
31-12-2007, 03:30 PM
dont they use cast iron heads for boat anchors?
Up until mid 88 when the highly refined 3.8l buick v6 block proved to have better bottom holding capabilities....:yelrotflmao:
XF0747
31-12-2007, 03:33 PM
getting some rep points for that
S250i
31-12-2007, 03:37 PM
getting some rep points for that
Yes!!!:wiggle2: :toocool:
Can you stop talking about **** please!
lowxdute
05-01-2008, 10:32 PM
Yo could rebuild the 200xflow with flattops and fit an E2 head which will then run PULP. So what combo did you decide you want? Also what power are you aiming for?
ZAC
I edited the list so that it seems sane... Here it is!
1. Race Rebuild Kit with bowl pistons.
2. New pushrods and Hydraulic Lifters.
3. New Water Pump and Welsh Plugs.
4. E2 Head.
5. 4.1 Crank and Conrods.
6. K&M Air Filter and New Fuel and Oil Filters.
7. New Spark Plugs and 10.0mm TOPGUN Ignition leads.
8. New Points and rotor button.
9. New Battery Terminals.
10. Pacemaker PH4470 Extractors.
11. Crow 14613 Cam and K1401 Valve Train Kit.
12. Recondition C4 auto.
13. Air Con.
14. Air Con Accessories.
15. 3 Core XF Radiator.
16. Twin Thermo Fans.
17. Power Steering.
18. Gas System.
19. Alarm and immobiliser.
20. 2 Barrel Webber Carburettor and manifold.
21. Reco Alternator and starter.
22. Distributor to go with 4.1 crank and Crow Cam.
23. New Coil.
24. Respray Motor in Ford Blue after Sandblasting (High heat Paint).l
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