Oil Pressur/Gaskets

[glenn86]

Hey guys,
im having trouble with oil pressure at the moment, i think due to cooler weather and small leaks. im looking at replacing ALL the oil gaskets and seals myself on next oil change. the ones i know i need to do are:
*rocker cover gasket
*sump gasket
*rear main seal
ill probably change the oil pump too.
is there any other seals/gaskets i should replace while doing this?
also how much work am i looking at? and if i cant be stuffed how much will it cost?

[savagE]

Yeah a fair bit of oily yuk work, what are the symptoms mate. I know for mine, when running warmed up, and idleing it is almost on the little grey bit before zero. When driving along its about half way. When starting, it takes about 1 second to get all the pressure up and going (if that).

[TUF250]

this is a big job, you are talking about removing the gearbox, the sump, oil pump etc. parts including an oil pump will probably only cost you a couple of hundred bucks but there is a fair bit of work.

before you go doing that though try thickening up the oil and put some STP stopleak in it. use a 20W60 or something with some STP, might save the hassle for a while

[WYLDXF]

b4 u do all of that, replace ur oil pressure switch, because b4 i recod my engine . i had trouble with oil pressure. i was stressing heaps because on the gauge it would drop to the red as soon as i stop etc, but ended up being a faulty oil pressure switch it was all glogged up, also hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and actually c the real reading of it, if ur having probs with oil pressure. c if that helps at all.

[savagE]

Mine at the lights and just idleing when warm is just above the red bit. This normal or bad?

[XF0747]

250's usually suffer from real bad oil pressure once they get high in the kays

a real common problem is that the oil pump wears out, and hasnt got enough to pump thru the engine

[drew442]

mines about 2 notches from the right when its given a hard time but mostly the needle sits vertically.

[TUF250]

my new one holds +50-60psi most of the time, my old engine in its later days got really bad and would get right down toward red at idle, probably why a bearing died in it

[f0rD fTw]

Upon start up...mine took several seconds to pick up oil pressure. I also had lifter problems.

Turned out to just be a build up of **** (and dented sump)


Before spending loads and loads of money on replacing this and that, I'd advice doing what I did.

Get some Nulon Engine Oil Flush, Nulon Lifter Free + Tune Up, and some THINER oil. I don't understand how even thicker oil would help with oil pressure. Perhaps try Castrol Magnatec 10W-40.

My problem greatly improved and I only used Castrol GTX3 15W-40. Abit thicker than 10W-40 but still good.

Also look for such things as dented sump.

If this doesn't work, then you know you have more severe problems.

[savagE]

Hmmm. So my engine is on the way out or maybe just the oil pump?

[BIGCAV]

Get some Nulon Engine Oil Flush, Nulon Lifter Free + Tune Up, and some THINER oil. I don't understand how even thicker oil would help with oil pressure. Perhaps try Castrol Magnatec 10W-40.
.

i can vouch for this. the oil flush amkes it have noisy lifters for a few secs after its done but with the addition of the magnatech iv lost all lifter noise and the car runs better then ever, however it does leak more than normal but probably as its a thinner oil and iv got a few leaks

[XF0747]

if need be use HPR 30, its a nice thick oil, also penrite make an oil for older engines

[f0rD fTw]

i can vouch for this. the oil flush amkes it have noisy lifters for a few secs after its done but with the addition of the magnatech iv lost all lifter noise and the car runs better then ever, however it does leak more than normal but probably as its a thinner oil and iv got a few leaks

Downside of using thin oil in older engines is you will get a bit of blow by. But burning abit of oil doesn't matter. Keep's it clean ;)

[ltd351t]

thinner oil has lower viscosity and so you will have lower oil pressure as the oil escapes from the oiling system much easier, heavier oil cant get out as quick so you get more oil pressure, run heavier oil in older tired engines, or engines that see sustained hard use, as once the oil is hot the viscosity also gets lower.

[f0rD fTw]

A quote I found on the internet...

"Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation."

When it's called exampe 10W, the 10W means it meets the SAE cold standard. It is thin when cold. And something like SAE 30 meets the heat standard.

A Multi-Grade or Multi-Viscosity oil meets both cold and hot standards. Such oils include 10W-30, and 10W-40. There are heaps more like 15W-40 etc.

[TUF250]

like i said up earlier bud, the thicker oil will give you better oil pressure which extends the life of engine bearings etc especially in low reving motors like ours. ltd351 has it on the nose. if the engine is getting worn or does a lot of highway Ks then use the HPR30 (20W60)otherwise maybe something like a 15W40 but thats as low as id go in a knocky old crossflow

[savagE]

I added in some things today.

Nulon Stop smoke
Nulon Engine Stop leaks
Nulon Lifter cleaner and tune up.

Plus mixed it in with a good 1L of 20w50 Valvoline.

Helped the oil pressure quite a bit, when running hot, it was 3 bars above what it was before.

[f0rD fTw]

Gotta love Nulon.

And was that thinner or thicker oil than you used?


Also, my bro's 78 cortina 250xflow..he's got it running with 10W-30 magnatec. Run's like a jet.


The thing about Magnatec is it's incredibly thin, but does the job of thick oil if not better, lubrication wise.

Everyone has their own opinions, but I am sticking with this.

[TUF250]

i think when it comes to cars, stick with what works is the best method, if you are having a good run with it then use it. i stick by nulon also

[f0rD fTw]

i think when it comes to cars, stick with what works is the best method, if you are having a good run with it then use it.

I agree.

[savagE]

I used the exact same oil I used before. XLD Valvoline premium.

[glenn86]

thanks guys, ill try the stop leak and that, but i know the seals need replacing anyway. ive got no problem taking out the gearbox, (ive had a bit of clutch trouble) but is that the only major concern with the 'work' aspect of it?

[TUF250]

yeah its not hard just a big and messy job. try a bottle of STP stop leak first and see how you go