will an R33 turbo suit a 250?

[TUF250]

i have the opertunity to buy an incomplete turbo kit of someone. for a long time i have wanted to turbo the falcon with its straight impco setup. (225 with L conv.) the kit is based around an EFI motor (similar piping to PSILTDs without mandral bending) and uses an R33 turbo which is a T03 from memory on a T3 flange (manifold is a standard log that has been modified). the turbo is blown so if i buy the kit is the R33 turbo suitable for a lowish boost street application or with a T3 flange am i better off using another turbo. any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers

[drew442]

depend on the compressor. a super 60 compressor maybe. but the housings would need swapping coming from a 2.5 or 2.6 litre engine.

get a different one.

i'm no expert though.

[KLR250]

i reckon it will be fine for a high torque low power setup, 150rwkw easy, boost by 1500 rpm, it will be snappy as ****, but dont expect it to do much past 4200. one thing to keep in mind, even though the 4.1 is nearly twice the size, it also rev's ahlf as much...for a street setup i reckon it would be foine, just dont expect to win any dyno comps. what you will get is a heap of torque down low

[TUF250]

to be honest while the car is a daily driver i would rather a high torque setup with low rpm boost as its then street usable and 150rwkw is a big jump from where i am now :-[ i have been looking around for places to buy these turbos but have not had much luck, there is a sea of T3/T4s and T04s out there but not any of these. so they go by another name at all? and does anyone know if there is another unit that is of similar spec or better that will bolt onto the same flange and dump pipe.

[PSI_LTD]

i wouldnt play around with a r33 turbo cos they got ceramic turbines which dont respond well to overspinning. also they have a small turbine a/r (.48 i think?), which means you will have nothing over 3500 rpm.
twin r33 turbos, yes, that will work.
otherwise try a t4/t3.

[TUF250]

oh well that is a little low but i suppose it would still be good as a daily. would it just stop increasing power over 3500 or will the overspinning turbo risk engine damage? also people call the R33 turbo a T03 is this identicle to a T3? because this kit is setup to accept an R33 turbo so wil the T3 or anyother bolt straight on to the mainifold and dump pipe?

[KLR250]

there small but there still a T3 frame, comparable to a VL T3 correct me if im wrong. i did have one in my posssesion a few years back

[KLR250]

and you wont have ceramic wheel issues unless you want to boost past 14psi...
Cals old setup (before the T04E), now that had a baby snail on it, T3 frame, smallish exhaust housing and according to all that have been in the car, reckon it absolutly thrashed

[TUF250]

well i wont be running it up to 14psi on the stock motor so that wont be an issue. i am looking for good everyday street performance so even the 1500-4000 (give or take) power band sounds good to me. i will hopfully be getting this kit this weekend and i will post pics up. thanks for the info once again.

[KLR250]

howmuchisit? dont be paying heaps of cash for it without posting pics up ere first and getting our aproval! lol anyways, if its cheap, you have a T3 flange even if the old turbo shits down the track

[TUF250]

The intercooler is tiny and the turbo is appantly blown but he is asking a very reasonable price for everything else including the dump pipe, intake piping, BOV and manifold so i think its worth a shot seeing as cheap coolers and turbos can be found on wonderful ebay ;D

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j182/tuf250/eng2.jpg

i have another photo if you are interested and need a better angle
look forward to your opinions

[KLR250]

looks liek a basic tidy setup, its just a J pipe? or a modded stock manifold? if the turbo's blown and the intercooler is farked, what are you really getting, manifold dump and some pipework? really not worth to much like that....$350 to $400?? if it includes oil line etc etc

[KLR250]

hmm, just examining the pics again, the piping is press bent, i dunno man...its really not worth a lot if you need to buy an IC and a turbo.....they are the two key ingredients

[TUF250]

well he said for $250 he will include:
- the turbo (blown)
- intercooler (too small)
- all piping
- BOV
- some of the oil fittings and lines
- dump pipe with the screamer outlet for the wategate

the manifold is a modified standard one i beleive. will the press bent pipes make alot of difference for low boost setups? he claims he ran it on 12PSI and it boosted above 2000 or so RPM. i dont know i thought for my first turbo kit for the car it would be a cheap way of setting it up as i can slowly collect the parts during the school semester and then put it together on the holidays.

[KLR250]

yeah, it just means taking gambles on ebay turbo's, coolers are cheap as now...so yeah, spose $250 ya cant go wrong
press bent make a bit of differnce, but meh, id use it, see how it goes, after all, if your only chasing 150rwkw it will be right...

with the turbo, it may be a pain in the arse when ya get a r33 off ebay, as ill bet you will have to scroll the exhaust housing around to get it in the right position to bolt up, this can be damn hard as the housings are often rusted solid to the core, and if you wack them to get them off you can chip the ceramic wheel...dunno, its all a gamble

[TUF250]

yeah i had thought that myself but i was hoping that if i were to buy a reco one (hopefully a T3 bolts straight up?) then the housing wouldve been removed anyway. if i can sell the old cooler to someone to reduce some of the cost again then i suppose i cant go wrong. if i use get 150-160rwkw and loads of tourqe id be happy with this setup. your right it is all a gamble... for what i want would you give it a go? its in geelong so i can pick it up this weekend

[KLR250]

yeah, id probably give it a shot.
just keep in mind though, its cheap now, but after maybe getting a farked turbo off ebay $350+ and ****in around it can quickly turn expensive, just be real careful when buying secondhand turbo's. I know when i was buying T25's back for my old twin turbo setup, i bought 3 ****ed ones lol and gave up in the end, id probably be more inclined to go to an importer and check the turbo's out myself, or, if buying from ebay, ask if you can look at the item if its local

[TUF250]

yeah i suppose the only benifit is that im not planning to do it in a massive rush so i can keep and eye out and have others do it also and get the right unit at the right price. i also have to cut the intake piping a little to get it to work with my mixer, i was thinking ill cut the section with the BOV out and use silicon joiners to mount the 225 and then cut the BOV in the intake upsteam. also i know the oil line comes off the pressure seder T peice but where do people send the return line to?

[PSI_LTD]

as high up on the sump as possible. try make the hole opposite a main bearing cap, so the rotating crank won't throw oil up the pipe.

[TUF250]

oh so you had to remove the sump and tap a fitting into it did you? i didnt realise this had to be done. what sort of fitting did you use?

[KLR250]

as high up on the sump as possible. try make the hole opposite a main bearing cap, so the rotating crank won't throw oil up the pipe.

yeah, iw as told this to, or i read it on a forum, cant remember, but it doesnt make any differnce to the turbo draining, there really isnt that much oil thrown to cause any problems, if the crank is throwing that much oil up something not right lol my drain ended up out in the open, i didnt even check

[XF0747]

i had my return welded into the sump (a -16 nipple) and i think it was approx .5in above the bottom of the sump

[XF6T]

mine goes around the back of the engine and then into the hole left by the fuel pump (now removed) saves making holes. works fine.

but if you gotta punch holes, this might help. dont remember where this diagram came from, but i think the jist of it is to try and avoid the crank!

[KLR250]

mine goes around the back of the engine and then into the hole left by the fuel pump (now removed) saves making holes. works fine. Now thats thinking outside the square!




but if you gotta punch holes, this might help. dont remember where this diagram came from, but i think the jist of it is to try and avoid the crank!
haha, yeah, avoiding the crank is a good idea ;)

[TUF250]

thanks guys! so you just cut a hole into the blanking pannel that blocks off where the old carby fuel pump used to be? i love it :D is this too high or dosnt it make a difference?

[XF6T]

it has to sit lower than where the line comes outta the turbo. which on most setups it does, unless you have a low mount turbo. the line will go a little high over the bellhousing and then back down to the fuel pump hole.
basically you will have a bit of oil sitting in the line but it will get pushed through without any drama's. :)

[KLR250]

yeah, its a good way of doing it, just make sure you run a decent diameter, as there will be a few twists and turns to get it from the tubo to the passenger side of the block

[KLR250]

I installed my sump fitting another way again, it included no welding, no engine removal, and came up as tidy as shit, close to factory, write it up when i cbf lol