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what mods can i do to make my 250 go harder?? hehehe
i'm on a budget but i want it to be fast and still reliable... :D :D :D :D :D
easy: 2 more cylinders.
;D
pioneerxf
09-01-2007, 11:10 PM
standard sort of suggestions include, extractors/headers, decent exhaust eg high flow cat 2.25" to 2.5" piping, cams, injectors aftermarket ECU's eg Wolf3d or Megasquirt, cold air intake, high performance spark plugs/leads/coils and theres still more.
I can vouch for the improvement a good set of plugs, leads and a good coil can do, didn't pick up overall power by a great deal but definently lifted the acceleration and smoothness of operation. I'd have to say that headers are a must, get a decent set if possible. The original database had heaps of info on aftermarket ECU's, I can remember a good reference was http://fordfuelinjection.com
Xfish
10-01-2007, 08:52 AM
easy: 2 more cylinders.
;D
why stop at 2 cylinders......;D
i was thinking of adding 500hp shot of nitrous and some neons, but then i'd need a carbon fibre spoiler to handle all the downforce from the improved horsepower, right??? :-[
thanks pioneerxf it's good so see SOME people take me seriously, BUT i'm just having a go at the question that seemed to be asked every couple of days... hehehe :P
Leigh
10-01-2007, 11:25 AM
i was thinking of adding 500hp shot of nitrous and some neons, but then i'd need a carbon fibre spoiler to handle all the downforce from the improved horsepower, right??? :-[
thanks pioneerxf it's good so see SOME people take me seriously, BUT i'm just having a go at the question that seemed to be asked every couple of days... hehehe :P
don't forget the NOS stickers... those babies add about 150hp each don't they?
and paint it RED!!! OF course, how could i forget :P
rynostation
10-01-2007, 02:24 PM
yeah basically what pioneerXF reckons,
plus, if you want it to go "harder" you can't really go past getting a manual box either a single rail or a T5 (if you can get one), and even get a higher ratio diff.
these obviously may cost you a couple (or a few) hundred bucks, but with a manual you can have heaps more fun playing with the throttle and getting a feel for where you car makes power and when, plus,
a higher ratio diff will make the car jump off the line a bit harder.
a good way to find out the current ratio of your diff is to get both wheels off the ground (with two jacks or a hoist), put the gearbox or tranny in nuetral, and turn one of the back wheels one full turn (use your valve cap as a guide), and while this is happening, count how many times the tailshaft rotates. for example if you had a 2.77, the tailshaft would rotate 2 and 3/4 times, if it was 2.92 it would rotate ALMOST 3 times, etc etc.
a lower ratio diff will make good fuel economy out on the highway, but it is hard for the motor to get these ones moving because of the low ratio. even an upgrade to 2.92 would see you getting off the line a bit harder. i suppose most wreckers will sell a diff centre for about 100-200 dollars, and the swap is pretty simple, any mechanic can do it, and you will see a sdifference immediately.
aside from that, you can't really go wrong with a bit of 98 octane, making sure your dizzy timing is right, and like pioneerXF said, making sure your spark system is good.
servicing is your friend.
yeah basically what pioneerXF reckons,
plus, if you want it to go "harder" you can't really go past getting a manual box either a single rail or a T5 (if you can get one), and even get a higher ratio diff.
these obviously may cost you a couple (or a few) hundred bucks, but with a manual you can have heaps more fun playing with the throttle and getting a feel for where you car makes power and when, plus,
a higher ratio diff will make the car jump off the line a bit harder.
a good way to find out the current ratio of your diff is to get both wheels off the ground (with two jacks or a hoist), put the gearbox or tranny in nuetral, and turn one of the back wheels one full turn (use your valve cap as a guide), and while this is happening, count how many times the tailshaft rotates. for example if you had a 2.77, the tailshaft would rotate 2 and 3/4 times, if it was 2.92 it would rotate ALMOST 3 times, etc etc.
a lower ratio diff will make good fuel economy out on the highway, but it is hard for the motor to get these ones moving because of the low ratio. even an upgrade to 2.92 would see you getting off the line a bit harder. i suppose most wreckers will sell a diff centre for about 100-200 dollars, and the swap is pretty simple, any mechanic can do it, and you will see a sdifference immediately.
aside from that, you can't really go wrong with a bit of 98 octane, making sure your dizzy timing is right, and like pioneerXF said, making sure your spark system is good.
servicing is your friend.
woah a lot of 'pent up' advice ryno :P :P
got a 4sp, going to a toyota 5sp in a week or two, with a wicked 1st to compenstate for the 2.92 (that's my aim, dunno how it'll turn out though!)
ps. i don't think putting 98 octane in an LPG tank would give it too much of a boost hehe
rynostation
11-01-2007, 11:33 AM
haha yeah,
just the sort of advice i would appreciate myself i guess.
but yeah, probably not a good idea to put petrol in your gas tank IF you can avoid it!
5 speeds are good fun, plus good for economy. i saw a great boost in economy when i upgraded from the 4spd single rail.
1800RPM at 110KMPH is pretty good i reckon, that's with 2.77s
but yeah try out the 2.92 or even 3.08 is it? it will see the car jump off the line a bit better.
pretty sure the ZL came out with a 2.92 didn't it? But esp with the sillycar box i'd love something like a 3.08 or a 3.27
Xfish
12-01-2007, 01:31 AM
zl fairlanes and fe ltd's came with 2.92s
MikGan
12-01-2007, 08:43 AM
pretty sure the ZL came out with a 2.92 didn't it? But esp with the sillycar box i'd love something like a 3.08 or a 3.27
Im using 4.11 in mine, with a 4 speed toploader.
rynostation
12-01-2007, 09:33 AM
haha mikgan that setup would get up and boogey
Xfish
12-01-2007, 04:50 PM
Im using 4.11 in mine, with a 4 speed toploader.
[/quote]
Dose your back end bounce around corners while turning?
Dose your back end bounce around corners while turning?
think it'd probably slide ;)
mad_wog
12-01-2007, 11:01 PM
get a manual, cold air intake, remove un nessesary weight, extractors, exhaust 2. 1/4, 3.23 lsd (out of a na fairlane) should go a bit harder....
lowriderxf
13-01-2007, 09:37 PM
Nah most ZL Fairlanes had 2.77:1LSD
ZAC
does 2k @ 80. thought that's a 2.92, although the digital dash isn't exactly accurate...
MikGan
14-01-2007, 12:27 PM
Dose your back end bounce around corners while turning?
Nup, why would it? lockers with crappy axles do that, even a locker with good axles dont bound around corners.
drew442
14-01-2007, 03:42 PM
to summerise that (and increase my post count) get a diff
blackjack_original
15-01-2007, 01:48 AM
Serious question, can someone tell me what a toploader is?
PSI_LTD
15-01-2007, 08:37 AM
toploader is a model of very beefy manual gearbox. found on gt's and mustangs.
different ratio's to a single rail too, i think.
toploader is a model of very beefy manual gearbox. found on gt's and mustangs.
different ratio's to a single rail too, i think.
also used in some 6cyl cortinas, with different ratios again.
and some of the big effies had em too i think...
drew442
15-01-2007, 03:02 PM
there is also a mexican toploader, which is 4 gears, 3rd is top and 4th is overdrive.
its a ford 4speed gearbox, various variants, not to be confused with the single rail.
ReD87GL
16-01-2007, 10:11 PM
some ppl may not think it but i do, a K&N pod filter running from air box through to the front bumper ull notice a diference there especially on cold nights
blackjack_original
18-01-2007, 05:00 PM
toploader is a model of very beefy manual gearbox. found on gt's and mustangs.
different ratio's to a single rail too, i think.
toploader is a model of very beefy manual gearbox. found on gt's and mustangs.
different ratio's to a single rail too, i think.
also used in some 6cyl cortinas, with different ratios again.
and some of the big effies had em too i think...
there is also a mexican toploader, which is 4 gears, 3rd is top and 4th is overdrive.
its a ford 4speed gearbox, various variants, not to be confused with the single rail.
Thanks guys, all this time I thought it was that shifter thing which looks like it has scissors sticking in it.
So why is it called a top loader? loads from the top? Loads what from the top? Is it some sort of a different setup to the forks that push the gears in the tranny?
well from what i can get out of street machine, the top loaders have a different gear selection mechanism to the singe rail. the single rail has, funnily enough, a single rail from the shifter housing to the main case where it changes the gears. The toploader has a number of 'levers' on the side that are rotated to change the gears. like on the autos, but three of them. so the tricky bits that actually work out what's what are part of the shifter, which can bemounted anywhere it wants, and can operate any way it wants...
that's my understanding...
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